The Lellama – A ‘must see’ highlight in Negombo
by Jetwing · Published · Updated
Negombo is probably one of the most convenient and accessible beach destinations in Sri Lanka, it soars high with a self-speaking reputation and ambiance that sets a relaxing yet exciting tone for its visitors.
The exquisiteness of Negombo primarily lies in the simplicity of the town itself and its cheerful folk. One of those fascinating sights in Negombo is the local Fish market uniquely called ‘Lellama’, which means the place of bargain. Bargaining is one of the common attributes of trade in a typical Sri Lankan market, the aggression and skillful bargains are vivid as one glimpses through the setup.
Having been to Negombo many a time; I never realized how intriguing a fish market can be; the common presumption would be ‘what could possibly be appealing about a smelly fish market?”. My circumstances forced me into experiencing the Lellama, and surprisingly the experience was not regrettable at all.
The trade kicks off early morning before the break of dawn, when the rest of the town is asleep. The local fishermen are gathered in hundreds at the Lellama displaying their catch to make their sale; at the hour (around 3:00 am) you could see fish of all shapes and sizes, massive would be understating some of the fish that is displayed.
One of the most amazing sights was seeing Sharks! That’s right! Man eating sharks stacked on a side for sale (I am guessing they were for sale). Being limited in my knowledge of sharks I couldn’t really name and compartmentalize their species but there were 3 kinds. For a silly moment it gives one a sense of supremacy to see the terror of the oceans slain, and to see an actual shark inches away.
Sales are primarily executed in bulk, an average (large) fish weighs approximately 15 Kilograms, it is weighed it front of potential buyers, and that’s when the bargain starts. The fishermen’s and buyer’s voices over take each other till a settlement is made, bargain at the Lellama is generally informal, aggressive and loud; a whole fishing culture surfaces within the scene. Once a buyer if found, on request the fish will be cut by a sharp knife over a wooden plank and pack it up for take away.
The sight of boats docked in an array, busy fisherman and the active trade in an early hour is an indispensable experience that is quite contradictory to the urban day to day transactions. Indulge and experience a day at the Lellama, a unique experience Negombo has to offer.
By Jeron Daniel
